Baroque Beauty at the Borromean Islands

Possibly thanks to George Clooney, or possibly because of its incredible beauty, Lake Como has been on Italy’s travel radar for years. When I find articles about “Things To Do in Milan,” going to Lake Como always seems to be listed, which is funny since it isn’t even in Milan. 

Though Como is stunning, Northern Italy is known for a number of gorgeous glacial lakes, and lucky for me, all are just a quick train ride away! Only 34 km from Milan, and resting just south of the  Alps, is Lago Maggiore. It’s close enough for a day trip and has plenty to see. 

Stresa is a nice town but I didn’t spend much time there. Instead, I found a ferry to the Borromean Islands. The Borromeo family began “collecting” Maggiore’s little islands in the 1500s, and still own a few today. Each island was unique; there were ferry options for visiting just one or two islands, but I’d highly recommend seeing all three!

Isola Bella

Isola Bella lives up to its name, completely taking my breath away.  The baroque palace and manmade gardens took over 400 years for the Borromeo family to complete. Walking through the halls is like walking through history. I cannot fathom how the bottom floors were created; they’re completely covered in shells and stones in elaborate designs and patterns! It’s cool in the grotto, which is welcome on a hot Italian afternoon. Other rooms are equally impressive, including the Hall of Napoleon (where he stayed in the late 1700s), a hall full floor to ceiling with paintings in gilded frames, and neoclassic stucco surrounding every window and lining every ceiling. On top of that, out every window is a view of mountains and perfectly blue water. 

The gardens of Isola Bella are what drew me to Lago Maggiore in the first place. In the center is in Amphitheater called Teatro Massimo, which climbs a number of levels with statues and sweeping staircases, AND is topped with a unicorn! White peacocks roam the perfectly mowed lawns. Though the statues and obelisks don’t necessarily match on either side of the amphitheater, there is still a lovely symmetry.   

Isola Madre

Isola Madre’s palace is like a museum, showing off the aristocratic treasures the family has accumulated over the years. There’s also a semi-creepy marionette display, filling rooms and rooms with dolls and theater scenes. There was one room I was particularly in love with; it looked like a gazebo, with a stunning floral chandelier in the center of the room, and paintings along the walls and ceilings that made the room look like it was dripping with flowers. 

Isola dei Pescatori

Last but not least was Isola dei Pescatori, which isn’t actually owned by the Borromeo family anymore, and unlike the others, has residents all year long. I loved ending my day wandering through the market stalls; prices were a little steep for leather sandals, but I did find some beautiful little crafts to take home! This was also where I stopped for lunch before making my way back to Stresa, and finally to Milan.