Český Krumlov: More than a Day Trip

I’ve been dying to visit Český Krumlov for years.

Ever since reading, “The Bloodletter’s Daugther,” by Linda Lafferty, Český Krumlov has been one of those towns I NEEDED to see, but just didn’t seem to fit into my plans. The book tells the tragic story of Emperor Rudolf II’s illegitimate son, Don Julius. As he sank into madness, his father sent him to live a secluded life at the castle in Český Krumlov. There, he fell in love with a local barber’s daughter named Marketa (the protagonist of the book). Flattered by the attention of such a noble man, she moved in with him, despite his frequent violent outbursts. In a terrible ending for poor Marketa, Don Julius eventually killed her.

While the story was a fascinating one, what really hooked me was the author’s note at the end, where she described being inspired to write her story after spending time wandering the medieval town. Between the quaint Old Town and the 13th century castle, I knew this was a town I needed to see!

Český Krumlov is more than just a day trip from Prague.

Don’t get me wrong, you COULD see the tiny city in a few hours if that’s what you have time for. However, I was thrilled to have 48 hours in the little town. It gave the experience a more relaxed vibe, and took off the pressure to rush around. In addition, the town becomes absolutely packed in the middle of the day. When I made my way to the castle around 9:30am, the streets were fairly empty, and when I climbed the tower steps, there were probably only 7 or 8 other people with whom I shared the view. But on my way out around 10:45am, I ran into 3 HUGE tour groups, and that number only grew as the day progressed. I literally got whacked with a selfie stick twice! Luckily, the morning and from 5:00pm or so onwards is calm and quiet. Once the day trippers have left and before the next group arrives, the little city belongs to the locals. That is definitely my preferred type of atmosphere.

Aimless wandering is, in my opinion, one of the best ways to get the feel for a small city; having a historical understanding of its background makes it a lot more interesting. Last week I was tutoring a 7th grader, and she was telling me about how worried she was about a friend. She went through some ways she felt her friend had been acting differently, and then hit me with this one:

“And Miss, the WORST part is that she didn’t even know what feudalism is!”

I cracked up a little on the inside that her friend’s lack of understanding of an old social system was a sign of trouble, but anyways, helping her study for an upcoming test on feudalism got me extra excited to visit the feudal town. Český Krumlov was founded in the Middle Ages, and renovated in the Renaissance and Baroque periods. What remains is a street layout typical of medieval towns, historic houses and shops, and a castle with elements of many major architectural periods since the 13th century.

History is a point of pride in the UNESCO World Heritage town. The restaurants, shops, and hotels throughout the town honor their past with descriptions of their history on menus, brochures, and signs. For example, at Hotel Ebersbach, where I stayed (and LOVED! oh my gosh, it was beautiful!), the welcome guide overviewed how the building had been the home of A. Michael of Ebersbach, a famous alchemist, in the 1600s.

In my wanderings, I came across an adorable example of history being kept alive. As I turned a corner, I found a group of local children dressed up in traditional clothing. As I watched, a small band (also in traditional garb) began to play their instruments, and the children sang and danced! I love thinking that instead of going to Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts after school, kids in Český Krumlov go and learn old dances and about their town’s past. They must feel so important to be a part of keeping traditions present!

I also came across an exhibit dedicated to Alfonse Mucha. I hadn’t realized that he was a Czech artist, but was so excited to see some of his original pieces! However, even during the busiest point in the day when the streets outside were practically swarming with tour groups, I was the only one in the exhibit. It’s a great place to head if you need a break from the crowds.

The castle was an astounding example of history preserved.

I’m always in awe realizing that what I’m looking at has been a part of human lives for hundreds of years; that what I’m staring up at has been stared up at (and built!) by someone for centuries. It completely amazes me. The Castle Museum was also my ideal type of museum. Rooms throughout part of the castle were set up as they would have been in earlier times, with additional artifacts related to daily life in cabinets along the sides. You could use an audioguide, but there were also pages in each room to read about the different displays. I just love seeing how people once lived so much!! As much of it dated from the time period Marketa would have been alive, it was especially interesting to see.

There was one part of the castle that really bothered me: a bear moat. I had no idea that bear moats existed. Along the edge of the castle was a deep ditch with a small waterfall, some rocks, a little stone pool, and some huge tree trunks. I only saw one, but apparently the moat is home to four adult bears. From what I read online (and overheard from a guide), they are well-loved and cared for, but it doesn’t change the fact that it’s four bears living in captivity… Poor little guys.

Anyways. I really love Eastern European food. It’s so hearty and flavorful!

With that said, I’m so glad that I don’t live there because I’d be 4,000 lbs eating this way all the time. Although, I guess you could say the same for living in Italy… Anyways, I had the tastiest local dish (twice) that seemed so odd at first glance. Svíčková is a roast sirloin stake, served with knedlíky (a bread dumpling). I have no idea what was in the sauce that covered the meat, but I could have licked it off the plate. The seemingly weird part was that on top of an orange slice (probably to keep it out of the sauce) was a thick layer of cranberry sauce, and on top of that WHIPPED CREAM!!! I was slightly terrified to try whipped cream with meat, but oh my gosh… unbelievable. I’m definitely trying out the recipe when I’m back in Milan!